Jamie Matusow, Editor11.07.12
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Beauteam’s Sandra Maguarian and Jean-Yves Bourgeois |
From innovative formulations to creative packaging options, the industry’s makeup-only trade show drew rave reviews from attendees and exhibitors alike.
More than 1,000 attendees and a 40% rise in exhibitors over 2011 added to the excitement surrounding the second annual edition of MakeUp in NY, the fast-growing makeup-only trade show held in the Big Apple. This year’s show—which took place September 12-13, at Studio 450, 450 West 31st Street, New York City—featured 36 stands, and welcomed attendees from top global players as well as small niche beauty companies.
The targeted event, which was created as a way for makeup industry suppliers to present their most innovative products to brand marketing teams from around the world, has also been held three times in Paris and is now heading for a Sao Paolo premiere in April 2013. Both bulk and packaging suppliers are participants.
Reports were that business was brisk throughout the two days.
On Day 2, Sandra Maguarian, of Beauteam, the show’s organizer, told Beauty Packaging, “The exhibitors have all expressed satisfaction.” In fact, she added, “Most met their expectations on the first day, so the second day is an excess.”
Jean-Yves Bourgeois, of Beauteam, commented: “The exhibitors say they have met the right people.” He explained that some of the features of the show that are popular with brand marketing teams include its “smaller size, confidential booth space and a slower pace.” He said this allows them to “speak about concrete things and really do business.”
Estée Lauder, L’Oréal and Avon accounted for some of the top tier brands that had sent personnel to meet with suppliers. In addition to predominantly NY-based professionals, attendees made the trip from elsewhere in the U.S., as well as from Mexico, Canada and several countries in South America.
In keeping with previous MakeUp in NY and MakeUp in Paris editions, top makeup artists demonstrated their craft in settings throughout the show floor. For example, in association with Geka,Oscar-winning makeup artist Michele Burke demonstrated makeup applications based on traditional Venetian masks. Burke works with Geka to design applicators, and serves as a consultant on their applicators, application systems and techniques, and formulations.
Trends on the Show Floor
The untraditional exhibit floor—a light and airy multi-level loft-like space, divided with billowy white curtains, and lit with industrial lights and chandeliers—offered a stunning view over Manhattan and the Hudson River, and set just the right tone for creative discussions.
Packaging suppliers offered a variety of solutions from unique sampling products to unusual nail polish bottles to lipsticks with treatment cores. A number of exhibitors highlighted their capabilities as far as offering complete turnkey services, a direction that continues to grow in the industry.
Beauty Packaging spoke to many of MakeUp in NY’s exhibitors to find out what they were highlighting, as well as to get their general impressions of the show.
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Julie Rice and Alberto Acquati, HCT Beauty |
As mentioned, with the growing demand for full service and turnkey packaging, many participants offered expanded capabilities.
HCT Group has taken it a step further, launching a turnkey division called HCT Beauty, which premiered at MakeUp in New York. Julie Rice, vice president product sales, East Coast office, explained that the division focuses on turnkey services and brushes. A multitude of cosmetics products were on display—all housed in HCT packaging. Products included brushes, long-wear formulas in HCT airless and airtight packaging, concealers in the company’s patented metal tip tube, baked powders, lipglosses and more. HCT was participating in the NY show for the first time, although they have previously participated in the Paris event. The company will also be traveling to Brazil in April for MakeUp in Sao Paolo. As far as the NY venue, Rice commented: “We have been busy since the minute the doors opened.”
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Aude De Livonniere-Fourgous (L) and Catherine Bouriez, Livcer. |
At Livcer, Aude de Livonniere-Fourgous, managing director, showed Beauty Packaging a new deluxe mini kit they were introducing. It contains a mirror, an applicator sponge, and a well that can be filled with foundation. The square palette snaps closed, and is protected by an outer paperboard sleeve that folds over to fasten. All instructions and ingredients are printed on the sleeve. This packaging option can be used as a deluxe sample, or as a stand-alone mini product—especially one that might be marketed as part of a travel kit, or one with appeal to teens.
Livonniere-Fourgous explained that the thermoformed palette is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PETG), which is more eco-friendly than other materials, and is certified by Ecocert.
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Frank Bierkandt (L) and Mike Warford, OEKAbeauty, ABA |
OEKAbeauty presented a wide range of stock packaging, including mascara brushes and packs, lipgloss applicators and packs, and lipstick packages.
ABA Packaging, OEKAbeauty’s exclusive U.S. representative, displayed items including glass and plastic bottles and jars, unique airless packages and a new sharpener line.
UV gel formulas are the latest nail polish trend, but since light causes the product to dry, typical bottles won’t protect the product. To solve the problem,
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Luisa Bittan Kamelhar and Jim Slowey, Arrowpak |
Another new twist for nail polish featured Topline Products’s exclusive glitter shaker cap. For the perfect “sugar coated” manicure, apply your nail color, then while the nail polish is still wet, sprinkle on the glitter topcoat to add some additional pizzazz.
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Charles Chang (L) and Vincent Groccia |
Anisa International introduced soft, flexible silicone tips for its Isotonic applicator wand. This patent-pending design utilizes the company’s magnetic technology. The wand includes three different applicators in one stacked cylinder. One section contains a pointy silicone tip that would be ideal to apply a gel liner. The second applicator is wider and flatter, for concealer or eye cream. The third is more rounded, and well suited for an eye shadow.
This was the first time Qosmedix exhibited at MakeUp in NY and Sari Sternschein, director of marketing, told Beauty Packaging: “We were quite pleased with the turnout. Quite a few of our existing customers stopped by and gave us some positive feedback on our products and services. At the same time, we met some new faces from leading companies such as Estée Lauder—La Mer, MAC, Tom Ford Beauty—and Revlon and Tarte.”
In addition to a variety of sponges, palettes, wands, applicators and other tools for the makeup category, Sternschein said, “Our false eyelashes were a huge hit.”
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At Gotha’s stand (L-R): Eric Csaszar, Katia Serra, Adriana Natale |
Textured, dual-purpose and long-wearing describe a few of the properties that stood out in cosmetics formulations.
Innovative textures were key at Topline Products, where the company introduced a wide range of new color cosmetics. Dual-purpose products featuring color and care were a highlight. Custom dual lip colors go on as a cream and finish as a powder, adding intensity to lip color; another feature—it’s long-lasting. A color crayon with a care core can also offer shimmer at the center. A triple split lip color can be arranged in a variety of ways. Topline also displayed its vast array of packaging componentry.
Gotha Cosmetics, based in Milan, claims a forté in emulsions, but is also moving forward with more color cosmetics formulations for luxury brands. Focus is on the feel of the cosmetics on the skin, so smooth formulations for innovative foundations and tinted moisturizers were on hand. The company provides a wide range of services from bulk to turnkey.
One of the highlights at first-time exhibitor Gi Picco’s stand was its active beads. The powder beads, which can be applied to the face with a brush, contain microencapsulated hyaluronic acid. The Milan-based contract manufacturer also featured a range of baked powders and mineral makeup, which can be decorated with any type of pattern or design. The company also offers filling and full service production.
Conference Program
More than 250 industry professionals attended MakeUp in NY’s new conference program, which featured a number of roundtables and presentations over the two days. Topics included full service packaging, packaging education programs, and makeup influences in Europe and North America.
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Beauty Packaging moderated a session on trends in full service packaging, which featured a panel of experts from cosmetics and packaging disciplines. Participants included: Jill Tomandl, VP product development package design, innovation, of Stila Cosmetics; Musa Pharand-Dias, VP marketing, Oxygen Development; Marc-André Houx, CEO of Shya Hsin Packaging USA; Mauricio Pachon from Weckerle Cosmetics; Dr. Christina Zech, head of R&D at Geka; and Nick Gardner, CEO of HCT USA (see photo; names above are provided for those seated left to right).
See You Next Year
Watch for the third edition of MakeUp in New York, scheduled for September 2013.
For info on MakeUp in New York and MakeUp in Paris, and a collection of photos from the event, stay tuned to www.beautypackaging.com
